06/06/2025
On 23 May 2025, Friends of the Earth France and the Multinationals Observatory lodged a complaint with the French High Authority for Transparency in Public Life (HATVP). At issue: the lobbying practices of ultra fast fashion giant Shein and its relays, notably former public decision-makers, in the context of the debate surrounding the proposed anti-fast fashion law.
The associations denounce irregularities in the declarations of lobbying activities for 2024, including incomplete, unclear, or missing information, in violation of transparency requirements.
Ambitious legislation blocked in the Senate
Adopted unanimously by the French National Assembly in March 2024, the Anti-Fast Fashion bill aims to regulate the environmental and social impact of disposable fashion, a business approach that rapidly designs, manufactures, and sells clothing and accessories at low cost, aiming to quickly reflect the latest style trends. The bill provides for:
- A ban on advertising for fast fashion brands
- A progressive environmental penalty of up to €10 per item sold by 2030
- A requirement for consumers to be informed about the ecological impact of the clothing.
Targeting companies such as Shein and Temu, the law aims to curb a low-cost, high-speed production model often denounced for its deleterious effects on the planet and human rights. But since its adoption by the French National Assembly, examination of the text by the Senate has been postponed several times. This stalemate is fuelling suspicions: what if pressure from fast-fashion lobbies was behind this institutional inertia?
An aggressive lobbying strategy
Faced with this regulatory threat, Shein has put in place a powerful and well-structured influence strategy involving the recruitment of former political decision-makers, including Christophe Castaner, former Minister of the Interior, to its CSR advisory committee, direct contacts with members of the parliament and senators to influence the legislative process. They also collaborate with influential communications agencies close to the Vivendi group to shape their public image in France. This system of influence, criticised by several NGOs and the media, is seen by many as an attempt at greenwashing and interference in democratic debate.
A symbolic law, a battle to be followed
The textile industry accounts for 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions – more than air and sea traffic combined. Fast fashion exacerbates this phenomenon with its rapid, unsustainable production model and its dependence on a workforce that is often exploited. Regulating this sector is therefore crucial if we are to meet our climate commitments, protect human rights, and curb over-consumption.
The anti-fast fashion bill goes beyond simple regulation — it embodies the broader struggle between public interest and powerful private lobbies. While lobbying efforts continue to delay its progress, the Senate’s upcoming solemn vote on 10 June is a crucial political test: will the French government have the will to set strict limits on a model that is both highly profitable and deeply harmful?